During the Soviet era, cotton became a symbol of prosperity not only for cotton-growing regions such as Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Azerbaijan but for the entire country. As such, its image was widely employed by visual propaganda tools.
The exhibition kicks off with a compact section designed to acquaint visitors with the history of cotton in Central Asia. It features antique garments, samples of traditional textiles, and wooden stamps used for printing patterns on handcrafted cotton fabrics.
The main section of the exhibition comprises paintings by renowned masters of Soviet visual art, including P. Benkov, A. Volkov, A. Nikolaev, M. Kurzin, O. Sokolova, V. Boborykin, S. Beglyarov, Sh. Mangasarov, and other artists.
Part of the exhibition space is dedicated to posters created from the 1930s to the 1970s. Alongside mass-printed works, it also features original sketches by A. Nikolaev, O. Sokolova, and S. Beglyarov – renowned artists who left their mark on the history of Central Asian painting.
One hall showcases a variety of cotton-themed objects: decorative panels, ceramic plates, embroidered covers, a gold-embroidered Bukhara skullcap, and a unique Turkmen ornament, all demonstrating how cotton was transformed into a sacred Soviet symbol.
The exhibition concludes with several contemporary robes, created by Tashkent designer Dilyara Kaipova. The fabric for these robes was hand-woven by masters from Margilan (a textile center in the Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan) using the traditional ikat technique based on Kaipova's original designs.
The State Museum of Oriental Art will be hosting a series of lectures in its lecture hall in connection with the exhibition:
15.10.2025 The colors of heaven and earth. Traditional ceramics of Uzbekistan of the XIX-XXI centuries (Lecturer Ye.S. Ermakova)
22.10.2025 Clothing and fabrics of Uzbekistan (Lecturer Ye.S. Ermakova)
29.10.2025 From skullcap to hijab (Lecturer Ye.S. Ermakova)
05.11.2025 "Paradise Un-Lost. Suzani." Decorative embroidery of Uzbekistan (Lecturer V.A. Myasina)
12.11.2025 Shades of "white gold" (Lecturer S.M. Khromchenko)
19.11.2025 Modern fashion in Central Asia (Lecturer M.A. Zagitova)
Lectures are offered in two formats: in person and online.
Broadcast of the program "Morning on the Culture Radio" about the exhibition “White Gold. Cotton in the Art of the Soviet East” with its curator – Ekaterina Ermakova – https://smotrim.ru/audio/2870025
Organizers and participants
State Museum of Oriental Art , State Tretyakov Gallery, The Burilin Ivanovo Museum of Local History, Kostroma State Historical-Architectural and Art Museum-Reserve, Tsaritsyno State Historical, Architectural, Art and Landscape Museum-Reserve, The Kosygin State University of Russia / Museum of Art Textiles and Costume, The Mardjani Foundation